The Concept of ''Merantau'' in Haj

(Masjidil Haram - Makkah Haj 2005)

''Haj'' is an Arabic word that literally means, ''to set for a place''. Similarly in ''Merantau'' a person sets himself for a journey to far away place outside his homeland. It is no doubt that the culture of ''Merantau'' that strives actively within the lives of many Baweanese can be seen clearly during the performance of Haj, one of the pillar of Islaam. Hence, the Baweanese culture of ''Merantau'' can be said is in-line with the teaching of Islaam since through Haj pilgrimage, Islaam teaches Muslims to set foot outside their hometown to experience life in foreign land.

(The Ka'bah)

In Islam, ''Haj'' means to set out for Makkah in a state of Ihram, during the months of Haj (Syawal, Zulkaedah, Zulhijjah) with the intention to perform certain religious rites in accordance with the method taught by Prophet Muhammad (peace and blessing be upon him). While the spirit of ''Merantau'' within the Bawean Islanders spurs their heart to leave their homeland to travel abroad, exploring the world in search of opportunities, adventures and knowledge simultaneously, learning about life outside the tiny island, Haj on the other hand is a requirement in Islaam for those who can afford to perform it.

(At Arafah - Haj 2005)

I performed Haj with my husband and youngest child in January 2005. The experience made me realized that Islaam does not want its followers to stay put in one place for the rest of their life. Islaam wants Muslims to be brave to travel abroad, seeking knowledge and continue to be progressive, learning about each other lives among the Muslims from different parts of the world. Simultaneously, Haj provides them with the opportunity to experience a different kind of environment from their birth place. It also provides them the opportunity to understand about life in this world.

(The aftermath of the big flood in Mina)

The big flood in Mina was my greatest memory during the Haj pilgrimage. It made me realized that life is short and death can be just around the corner. Almighty Allah commanded the heavy rain to flood the area, at the same time, kept me and my family in safety. To me, it was a test of faith. My trust in Allah, the Most High, was tested in a time of difficulty, where my unrelenting faith was rewarded with easy stoning of the three Jamrahs.

(The Jamrah - 'Jamrah' means 'Pillar')

I remember my family doctor advising me not to worry about being trapped in massive pools of water in the sandy sand of the Arabian desert as the place was located far from coast. It was very ironic how I had expressed my worries of natural disasters. I thought anything could happen. Indeed if Allah, the All-Wise, wants it to be, it will be, because nothing escapes Almighty Allah’s will and everything is possible except Allah the Most High. From the incident, I was able to see the significance and beauty of Haj.

(At the rear of the photo is the area to perform the stoning of Jamrah)

Likewise, through ''Merantau'', Baweanese became matured in thinking, knowledgable and broad-minded, Haj is ordained in Islaam for Muslims to be wise especially in making choices. It helps to develop intelligent individual Muslims, one who is able to handle issues and daily dealings wisely. Haj also makes Muslims think and ponder about life in this world and universe. It teaches and trains Muslims to live and survive on this earth. While the Qur'aan teaches about Islaam in theory, Haj is the practical lesson to practice this great faith.

(Cave Hira at Jabal Nur - the place where the first revelation of the Qur'aan took place. It was in this small dark cave that the light of Islaam started to glow, lighting-up the world)

Spirit of ''Merantau'' within Singaporean Baweanese

(Life as a traveller living in tents at the valley of Mina during Haj 2005)

The Spirit of 'Merantau' is always alive within most Baweanese descent living in Singapore. Many of the Singaporean Baweanese that I met, either work or had worked before for shipping or airline companies that provided them with the opportunity to travel while at the same time earning income to support themselves and their family.

(Life in Disneyland Toon Town - Spring 1995)

Most of my relatives have 'work to travel' attitude. The spirit of 'Merantau' is always within them. They either work in shipping or airline companies or in any other industries that provide them with the opportunity to travel. They hold positions such as Officer, Steward, Stewardess, Aircraft Cleaner, Airline Caterer, Cooks and others.

(At the backyard of the Blue Mosque - Turkey Tour 1996)

One of my cousins had previously worked for Singapore national shipping line as a Cadet Officer on board container vessels. He had travelled across the seven seas, travelling as far as Europe. Finally, he settled down in Australia and became an Australian citizen.

(My Australian nephew and nieces)

Like my cousin, I am a typical Baweanese descent who is always seeking for opportunities to travel, while at the same time earning an honest income for myself and family. I love and enjoy travelling, experience overseas life and at the same time happy to learn the culture of other nationalities.

(Making friends with Turkish Muslims in Anatolia region during Turkey Tour in 1996)

In my twenties, I chose to work for the Singapore national shipping line as an Administrator. This is because at that time, the company provided the opportunity for its admininstration staffs to travel once in every two years on board its cargo vessels as the guest of the Captain, sailing around the globe.

(The Subterranean City of Kaymakli in Turkey - home of the early Turkish Christians)

In my thirties, I chose to work for the Finance Department with the Singapore national airline company. This is because the firm provides the opportunity for its employees to travel yearly with their family on board its airplane to any destination it flies to, for holiday. With the free airline tickets, I had travelled to big cities such as Paris, London, San Diego, Los Angeles and many more.

(The Big Ben -London Winter 1994)

(The Wave Rock -Perth Winter 1999)

(Versailles - Paris Winter 1994)

Now I am in my forties and the spirit of 'Merantau' is still alive in me. I chose to leave the workforce to accompany my husband to any destinations his job required him to be. An engineer by profession, he is always working overseas in foreign countries.

(The sandy coastal beach of Dukhan - Qatar Winter 2006)

The spirit of 'Merantau' continues to flow into the veins of my three children. My youngest child is always looking forward for the next holiday adventure, while my oldest two children are eager to study overseas. My family and I are always in search of adventures away from homeland, to experience a different kind of environment from the one we had gone through in Singapore.

(Spring water at Pamukkale, the Cotton castle - Turkey Winter 1996)

It is due to the spirit of 'Merantau' within my forefathers that I was fated to be born in Singapore and to receive good education. To generate quality life, I utilized the knowledge that I received to earn a decent living. Imagine if my ancestors were to stay put in Bawean Island, I will not be here to share my adventures and knowledge with the world, especially to my people in Bawean or in any other parts of the world.

(My Malaysian relatives)

To all Baweanese descent around the globe, we should be proud of our brave forefathers who took the initiatives to travel abroad in search of opportunities that resulted us of having good education, leading quality lives. As progressive people, it is now time for us to be contributive, doing our part for Bawean by promoting ourselves as responsible individual Baweanese so as to project a prominent race with fine qualities. In whatever we do and wherever we are, never ever forget our roots and heritage. Always remember, we are the descendents of ''The Children of Bawean''.

The Baweanese Culture of ''Merantau''

(Granddad Hj.Siddik with other Baweanese on board a vessel)

It is in the culture of the Baweanese to 'Merantau' which means travelling in search of opportunities, adventures and life experiences. Many Baweanese men of the past had travelled as far as Europe via vessels, working on board the ship. While the majority of them worked as sea-men, there were some who worked as cooks preparing meals for the ship-workers during the sea journey.

According to the Bawean Islanders, Baweanese men will not be viewed as adults if they had not set foot out of their homeland to travel, seeking opportunities abroad and experience the life outside Bawean Island. This culture of 'Merantau' gradually became a profession to many Baweanese men, bringing rewarding income to their family.

While the majority of them went back home to Bawean Island after years of travelling, there were many who decided to reside in the country they travelled to. Many of them settled in the Malay Peninsula and some settled as far as in Europe, Australia, America, Far East and many other places.

Today, most of the descendents of the Baweanese who settled in Singapore do not realize that their passion for travelling is inherited from their forefathers. It is one of the traits passed down by their ancestors.

(An Uncle who has a passion for travelling)

The early Singaporean Baweanese preferred to work as horse-trainers at the Singapore Turf Club because their job required them to travel to Kuala Lumpur, Penang and Ipoh, frequently. They were able to travel out of Singapore and to meet their relatives in Malaysia, while at the same time earning a living for their family. Apart from that, they were given free accommodation to stay during working overseas and in Singapore, a home to live in.

(A home at Singapore Turf Club in the 80s)

During the British colonization days, there were handful of them who worked as personal drivers for British families or companies that required them to drive across the causeway. They enjoyed working as drivers because not only that it provided them with income, they had transport to move around and able to meet their relatives living across the causeway.

(At Jabal Uhud during Ummrah 1997)

Today, the Baweanese culture of 'Merantau' is still alive within the descendents of the Bawean Islanders who are living abroad, outside the Island of Bawean. Especially for most Singaporean Baweanese, the spirit of 'Merantau' is generally kept alive either through tagging it along to their profession or simply through spending their time going for vacations during work and school holidays.

(A Holiday Trip to Australia in 1993)

Faces of Baweanese

Guests from Bawean Island

In 1960s and 1970s, several relatives of my parents from the Bawean Island came to visit Singapore. They were mostly fishermen, farmers, carpenters and craftsmen. They used to bring jars of 'Kemed', dried salted fish, peanuts, rice, crackers, wooden stools and straw mats as gifts. Some of these items were for sale too and were bought by the Pondok residents.

Mamang Bideng (Mum's paternal cousin), Tok Matnong (Mum's maternal uncle) and wife

The guests from Bawean Island were welcomed with opened arms by my family. My parents spend generously and tried to make their stay a memorable one. They left Singapore with lots of gifts and souvenirs such as clothing, household items, and children's toys. They were given some money too. My parents made great efforts to have close ties with the relatives in Bawean Island.

Traditional Food

Straw Mat

While generally, the women from Bawean Island that I met were very skillful in making straw mats or any other products made from straw, the men were good at hand works. Like my mothers' cousins and uncles whom I met in the early 1970s, they were extremely good with carpentry work. I saw them helping my granddad who loves doing carpentry during his spare time, making wooden stools and tables. I also remember that some of the men from Bawean Island brought several of their craft works to sell them to the Baweanese living in Singapore. Among the popular item was the wooden cutting board used in the kitchen. It was always in demand.

My grandfather's capentry work - a wooden stool which I still keep and treasured

Wooden cutting-board used in the kitchen

Generally, the visitors from the Bawean Island like to bring souvenirs for their close relatives in Singapore. My father's cousins who visited my family in the late 1970s brought a small packet of rice and peanuts which they have grown themselves. These items were cultivated in a plot of land in Bawean Island which my father used to own. He inherited the land from his father and told his cousins to manage it. They turned the land into padi fields and a small area for growing peanuts for their own consumptions. So when they visited my family they brought with them the products of the land as a gesture of gratitude. They said that my dad and his family should taste the rice cultivated from his land in Bawean Island. Later on, a few years before my father passed away, he gave the land to them. Personally, I think it was a wise decision. I believe today, they are still living on that land and I hope to meet them some day in the future. Insha'Allah.

Reading Talkin on the grave of a dead person

(During my father's funeral)

About 26 years ago Obek Arshad was the one who read the Talkin at the funeral of my maternal grandfather and my dad. Similarly, he had done the same during the funeral of my maternal grandmother as well as his two brothers whom I used to call Obek Adnan and Obek Ali. Everytime Obek Arshad read the Talkin, a sense of remorse could be felt for all the unpleasant actions and wrongdoings that had been done in the past. With his stern, firm voice, he was able to send the message across into the minds of those who were present at the funeral listening to his Talkin speech. However, on Tuesday, 10th June 2008, 6 Jamadilakhir, he was the reason the Talkin was read at his funeral.

Generally, since the days of their forefathers, the Baweanese in Singapore have been practicing the reading of Talkin on the grave of a dead person after the burial is done. However, today there are some among them who considered the act to be bidaah and abandoned the practice. Some Muslims considered reading the Talkin is not only bidaah but, it is a form of deviation from the correct teaching of Islaam because it was never done by Prophet Muhammad (s.a.w.) nor by the four Caliph.

Ibnul Qayyim wrote in his book entitled 'Ar-Ruh' that there are some Ulama who think that Talkin is bad and without basis as the dead is not able to hear. Debating on this issue, he quoted a Hadith recorded by Abu Daud on an incident in which Prophet Muhammad (s.a.w.) attended a funeral. When the dead body was buried the Prophet (s.a.w.) had advised the dead person's relatives to supplicate for the dead to be strong in facing the reality of death because at that moment he (the dead person) was being questioned in his grave. Ibnul Qayyim argued that if the dead person could hear those questions in his grave, surely he could also hear the Talkin from his grave too.

Ibnul Qayyim also wrote that it was in the opinion of Imam Ahmad that reading Talkin to the dead on the grave after burial is a good thing to do. He also mentioned that Muslims in the past and present practiced it for the dead to hear and benefited from it.

What is Talkin actually about, that there are many controversial issues on it?

Talkin is merely a speech made on the grave of a dead person after the burial. The purpose is to tell the dead that he is in the world of Barzakh facing the reality of death and will be questioned in the grave by the two angels, Mungkar and Nakir. To the living, the Talkin is a reminder that the world of Barzakh is real. It is a speech of advice, highlighting that this worldly life is not permanent and the need to be prepared for death is necessary. Every human being will face death eventually and the Talkin provides a reflection to the followers of Islaam the importance to be good Muslims –one who is God-fearing and continuously seeking for Allah's (s.w.t.) guidance to lead him to the straight path of Siratal Mustaqeem, the safe path to be taken on the journey to the world of Hereafter.

Talkin has been practiced generation after generation that it had become a tradition. Due to this, some Muslims think that it is compulsory to read the Talkin. It should be known that in accordance to the Islamic rites in handling dead bodies, to read the Talkin is not an act of wajib. According to Islaam, there are four compulsory things that need to be done when a person passed away. First, the dead body has to be cleaned and bathed. Second, it has to be wrapped in shroud. Third, Sholat has to be performed on it. Finally it has to be buried in the earth.

Personally I think that the Talkin is beneficial to all because it reminds us about the reality of death, the questions that will be asked in the grave and the fate of the souls while waiting for Resurrection Day. There is nothing wrong in giving advice, in fact it is a good act encouraged by Islaam. Regardless of whether the Talkin is read or not is unimportant because the Talkin is not a requirement in Islaam. What matters most is that, reading of the Talkin should not affect the observance of the Aqidah of an individual Muslim. It is important to know that the Talkin is not compulsory as it is not wajib in Islaam. Hence according to Islaam, there is nothing sinful for not practicing the reading of Talkin.

In Memory of Ustaz Hj. Arshad Bin Nor

Ustaz Hj. Arshad was the son of my maternal grandfather's cousin. He was born and raised in Bawean Island. In the 50s, he migrated to Singapore during the British Colonization. My maternal grandfather was his closest Uncle, the only next-of-kin living in Singapore. My grandparents took care of him before he got married and had a family of his own.

Obek Arshad, as I used to call him, was a learned person in the field of Islamic Studies. He used to work in the Prison as a religious teacher to the in-mates. He also used to bring pilgrims to Makkah for Ummrah and Hajj.

During his employment period with the Queenstown Prison, Obek Arshad lived at the Queenstown Prison's workers living quarters. I used to follow my parents whenever they visited him at his home. Every time my parents told me that we were getting ready to go to Obek Arshad's home, my heart always jolted with joy, feeling excited full of eager to meet him and his family. I was always looking forward to play with his children while the adults were having conversations.

Obek Arshad was a very cheerful person, full of smiling expressions on his face. I remembered him as a warm, kind hearted person. He was always happy to welcome members from his uncle's family to his home and made the stay an enjoyable one. I enjoyed very much listening to his interesting ghost stories that he told to keep the little ones entertained. His advise not to fear the dark nor the lurking-places of Unseen Beings remain etched in my mind till this day. Instead, he would say to always fear Almighty Allah.

I always remember Obek Arshad as an Ustaz with a gifted voice that was stern and firm, especially good at reciting quotation of verses in the Qur'aan. His passion to continuously seeking Islamic knowledge could be seen from the library of Islamic books he had read, displayed on his book shelves. His career as a religious teacher had inspired me to pursue my studies in Islamic Knowledge at tertiary level. Obek Arshad will always exist in my memory as the Uncle whom I think highly off and regard him with the utmost respect.

Ustaz Hj. Arshad passed away a few days ago, on Monday, 9th June 2008 at about 4.00 p.m. and was buried the next day. He left behind a widow, two sons, three daughters and several grand-children. Truly, I am remorseful for not able to bid him farewell on his death-bed, and I send my deepest condolences to his widow and children. Indeed his family has lost a good husband and father. I have lost an Uncle and Singaporean Baweanese have lost one of its pioneer educators who had contributed in shaping good Muslim individuals. For all the many good things that he had done, may Allah’s blessings be upon him. May his soul be placed among those favored by Allah (s.w.t.). May Allah (s.w.t.) grant peace to Obek Arshad's soul in the world of Barzakh. Aameen.

Indeed we are here on this earth temporarily. When it is time to leave this world, the soul has to leave the dead body that has to be buried six feet underneath the ground. Thus, from clay the human body was made off and to clay shall it be returned…..