Living in Pondok Kelompang Gubuk

(At the back lane - My two younger sister, my brother and I. Photo taken in the 1970s)

My two younger sisters and I were born at the Pondok ("Ponthuk" is the proper Baweanese pronunciation of the word) in the 1960s, each about two years apart. My mum told me that the midwife from KK Hospital came down to our home to help with the delivery.

Vividly, I did remember the time I was a little girl playing with my sisters and friends around my age. They were from several Pondok nearby. Two shophouses away from my home was Pondok Tachung and across the road on the left side were several Pondok Pangga.

(My siblings and cousins at the entrance of our home in the early 1970s.)

My sisters and I had gone through the changes, as time moved on. We had experienced living in a Pondok and witnessed the lives and the changing life-styles of the Baweanese of the 1960s, 1970s, 1980s, and 1990s, as they progressed through the years.

(My sister, brother and cousin Anam. Photo taken in the 1970s. The back lane was our playing ground whenever our footballers mamang were not available to bring us to the Kampong Kapor Community Centre, just across the road.)

Generally, the residents living in a Pondok had to follow rules and regulations of the particular Pondok they were living in. These rules and regulations vary among each Pondok. In Pondok Kelompang Gubuk, some of the general rules were; lights to be switched off at certain time; one was not allowed to spend too long in the shower; and the bachelors, including the male guests who were mainly the sea-men, were not allowed to go to the second level of the shophouse. These guests spent the night in the Pondok before leaving Singapore for other destinations.

(The Bachelors of Kampong Kapor in the late 1950s/early 1960s)

A huge, high table covering one-third of the living room became bed to these men during the night. The "ambin" as it was called, being placed against the three walls of the room on the right (as one sees it standing facing the living-room from the entrance door). Each of the men slept on thin mattress that could be folded and kept on the shelf mounted to the wall just above the right window. During the day, it became an area for relaxing as they sat, chatting among each others.

(The site where the "ambin" used to be. Above this window there used to be the shelf for keeping the folded mattresses. Photo was taken in the 1980s.)

Below the "ambin" was a store-like place where plates, glasses and cutlery used for functions were kept in wooden boxes. All these were bought using the funds collected from the residents of the pondok and also members who once lived at Pondok Kelompang Gubuk. When the "ambin" was dismantled and thrown away during the 1970s, the wooden boxes including the contents were shipped to Bawean Island to the people living in the village Kelompang Gubuk.

(The site where the long dining table used to be. This photo was taken in the 1980s. They were preparing a birthday party for little Anam.)

Opposite the "ambin" was a long dining table used by the men to have their meals. It was also used to receive male guests. Tea or Coffee with pastries were prepared by the Mak Lurah and served by the Pak Lurah. It was at this table that the General Meetings were conducted in which members of the Pondok gathered for discussions. Generally, every Pondok in Kampong Kapor had their individual committee headed by the Pak Lurah. A treasurer was appointed to collect membership funds from members of the Pondok. He also collected the rent and utility money from the residence of the Pondok. This system was very prominent during the 1960s, 1970s and 1980s.

The middle room at the ground floor and the front room on the second level was for married residents. There were many families in these two huge rooms. The wardrobes were placed in such away that they acted as dividers between the spaces of each family, while the entrance to each of these spaces were covered by curtains.

The middle room on the second level was a room for the ladies. My granddad, Pak Lurah Haji Siddik who was the Head of Pondok Kelompang Gubuk between the 1960s to early 1980s, occupied the rear small room on the second level. At this level, there was a toilet mainly used by the women.

The above features were very prominent during the 1960s. Through the years, these space areas occupied by those with family got bigger due to many residents moving out of the Pondok to live in HDB flats. By the 1990s, the only family left to live at Pondok Kelompang Gubuk was the family of Aunt Suhaidah.

(My grandmother doing her cooking. This area was a small part of the kitchen. Photo taken in 1980s.)

The women of Pondok Kelompang Gubuk shared a communal kitchen. Each family was given space to do their cooking. It was a huge kitchen. There was a big "ambin" used for work space in preparing food. The "ambin" was also used by the women and children to have their meals. Some married couples also had their meals there too.

(My youngest sister playing model posing for the camera at the backlane of our Pondok home. Photo taken in the early 1970s).

At the rear part of the Pondok, there was a back door. This door opened to the back lane. This rear area of the Pondok was the place for washing clothes. The women washed their family clothes just infront of the toilet. They took turns one after another. The washing was done only after the men got showered and gone to work.

(The rear part of the Pondok, just infront of the toilet. Photo taken in the 1980s)

In the late 1960s, another small room was built on second level at the rear part of the Pondok. This room was my family's room. It was built by my granddad who was good in carpentry work. Carpentry was his hobby during his off days, working as a PUB driver. This room was well built and often used during weddings for the bride to be dressed up for the wedding ceremony.

(My family's room. The Photo were taken in the 1970s during a wedding occassion.)

I enjoyed living in the Pondok. It left me with beautiful memories of my childhood life. My family and I left Pondok Kelompang Gubuk in 1974 to live in the HDB flats. Eventually, many follows my father's footsteps -purchasing HDB flats.

(The Bachelors of Kampong Kapor. My father on the left most, with his friends acting out as musicians. Photo taken in the late 1950s.)

History of the Singaporean Baweanese

I read about the history of Singaporean Baweanese in the book entitled "Singapore The Encyclopedia". I bought this book from Borders about few months ago. It is an interesting book full of information about Singapore. Personally, I think every Singaporean should own this book.

The book wrote an accurate account about the the lives of the early Baweanese settlers in Singapore. It clarifies that the Baweanese were immigrants who set their foot in this Sunny Island. The book shows a photograph of a group of early Baweanese living in Singapore in 1910. They look very much like any other native Indonesian people. Obviously they are not Malays.

Majority of the Chinese, Indians, Eurasions as well as some Malays always assume that the Baweanese are Malays because they speak in Malay and learn the Malay language in the National School as their mother tongue. As I had explained in my previous post, the Malay language has been widely spoken by the Baweanese since the colonial days because it is the language of the Malays, the indigenous people of Singapore, who embraced the same religion as the Bawean people.

After Singapore's independence, there is a valid reason for the Baweanese to speak in Malay -it is the National Language of Singapore. Today, the Malay language is spoken widely by the Singaporean Baweanese with several Baweanese words in it.

According to the book, the Singaporean Baweanese are the descendent of migrants from the Indonesian island of Bawean and their ancestors constitute the third-largest immigrant population of Singapore's Malay community. The book continues to describe the early Baweanese who came to Singapore. It wrote that the first Baweanese are thought to have come to Singapore in 1824 on a BUGIS ship. Below is an excerpt of the written facts in the Book about the Baweanese.

"...According to an 1849 census,there were 763 Boyanese, mostly men, in Singapore. The numbers increased gradually due to continuous immigration prior to World War II; however entry was more strictly controlled in the post-war period, especially after the implementation of the Citizenships Ordinance in 1957.

The present Boyanese population is mostly made up of the descendants of these earlier immigrants. According to the 2000 population census, there are 51,849 Boyanese in Singapore. A notable aspect of Boyanese culture is the tradition of merantau, the migration of men from the island in search of work. Historically, the Boyansese migrated to Singapore from Bawean Island in Indonesia in search of urban, waged work.

From the onset, the Boyanese settled in Kampung Boyan, at the bank of the Rochor River between Jalan Besar and Syed Alwi Road. They organized themselves into Pondok or Ponthuk (communal lodging house) communities where they formed a social structure that ensured that their welfare was taken care of until they were economically secure to set up their own home. These houses usually catered for groups of migrants who came from the same district of village.

Houses were also located in other parts of the city, including Pondok Adam at Ann Siang Hill, Pondok Teluk Dulam at Dixon Road and Pondok Dedawang at Sophia Road. The Boyanese were also among the early residents of Serangoon Road. Some of them established themselved in an area call Kampung Kapor, which was west of Kampung Boyan..."

Buy the book "Singapore The Encyclopedia" to read more. And yes, Kampong Kapor is the area at Jalan Besar in the vicinity of Little India -the area where I was born and spend my childhood life. This will be the theme in my next post.

Infusion of the Malay culture into the Baweanese lives

(The family of my paternal Aunt Jamaliah. A Studio Photo taken in the late 1950s. Notice my older cousin was wearing the Malay traditional baju kurong.)

My father's photo album had helped me to recall my childhood life living in Pondok Kelompang Gubuk. It was during the period in which the Baweanese language was widely used among the Singaporean Baweanese. My grandparents spoke to me in this language with mixture of Malay. Back then, most Baweanese spoke in Malay with the Baweanese accent.

When the Baweanese from the Bawean Island came to live in Singapore, they were unable to speak the Malay language. Since this language was widely spoken by the indigenous people of Singapore, i.e. the Malays, it was necessary for these Baweanese to learn the language. It became even more prominent after the independence of Singapore as it became the National Language of the country.

Other than the above factors, the Baweanese living in Singapore speak the Malay language due to the fact that they shared the same religion as the Singaporean Malays. They mingled with the Malays and gradually like the other Indonesian ethnic groups living in Singapore such as the Javanese and Bugis, they were recognised by the Malays as part of their Community.

(During Eid-ul-Fitr,my cousins wearing Baju Kurong, the traditional costume of the Malays. Photo taken in the late 90s.)

Gradually, the Baweanese living in Singapore began to dress like the Malays. They wore Baju Kurong, the Malay traditional costume. Soon the younger generations Baweanese ladies replaced the Kebaya and Sarong Batik with the two pieces Malay Baju Kurong. On the other hand, the men started to put on the Songket Kain Samping.

(My cousin -daughter of my mother's cousin, with her son and daughter. She was wearing a Kebarong while her daughter was wearing Kebaya -late 1990s)

However, today there are some Baweanese who continue to put on the Kebaya but with some 'adjustments' and 'innovations'. Such Kebaya are called Kebarong. It is actually the infusion of the Baju Kurong into the Kebaya with the elimination of the Sarong Batik. However, there are those who continue to put on the Kebaya without any changes.

(The Baweanese lady in the photo continues to put on Kebaya while her aunt sitting next to her wore Baju Kurong -2003)

Through the years, the Singaporean Baweanese and the other Singaporean Muslims of Indonesian ethnic descent were very much infused and blended into the Malay Community that other races such as the Chinese, Indians and Eurasians acknowledged them as Malays. It became even more confusing when inter-marriage between these ethnic groups occurred. Today, there are many marriages between the Baweanese and Malays or Baweanese and Javanese or Baweanese and other races that make the younger generations of Singaporean Baweanese confused about their race.

(Nowadays, it is difficult to identify the Baweanese living among the Malays. Look at the above photo taken few years back. Do you think that this is a Baweanese family?)

Fortunately, the Singapore Government always reminds young Singaporeans not to forget their roots and heritage. This is also reflected in the Singapore Identity Card (NRIC) that shows the race of an individual Singaporean. Hence, one who is of a Baweanese descent, his/her race will be shown as Boyanese ('Boyanese' is the spelling in Singapore for 'Baweanese') in his/her NRIC. Clearly the Baweanese are not Malays.

The Baweanese in Kampong Kapor

My late dad had a hobby that very much benefited this blog. He collected photographs of his family, relatives, friends and anybody that he met. Then he arranged them nicely in an album. Thanks to him that now I am able to post some of those pictures of the Bawean people living in Singapore during the 1950s, 1960s, and 1970s. Below are some of the photographs that depict the lives of the Baweanese living at Kampong Kapor, a Bawean Village in the Little India area.

In the 1950, 1960s and 1970s, studio photo taking was very popular. Above is the photograph of my paternal aunties and uncle-in-law.

Notice the clothings of the Baweanese women. Kebaya with Sarong Batik -the traditional attire of the Baweanese women, just like any other Indonesian ethnic groups. Above is the photograph of my paternal aunties and relatives.

During occasion such as Wedding, Aqiqah, and other celebrations in which lots of guests were invited, the Pondok men helped out with the preparation of the drinks while the Pondok women helped the host with the cooking of the food. Above is the photograph of my dad with his friends helping out with the serving of drinks.

The female guests were welcomed by the Pondok women via the back lane entrance. During the feast, the guests sat on the floor to enjoy the food. Above is the photograph of my mum with the other woman guests eating their food at the rear area of the Pondok. They sat on the floor as they enjoyed eating the food together.

The male guests were welcomed by the Pondok men at the front entrance. They were served at the front most part of the Pondok, i.e. the living room. Notice the similarity between the culture of Arab Muslims during occasions of celebration and those of the Bawean people in Singapore as depicted in the photograph -the men were separated from the women. They sat on the floor instead of dinning table. They used hand and shared their food eating from one tray in a group of four or six.

My Uncle, the Army Captain

(Captain Soaidy Ali Bin Ali in his army uniform - Photo taken in early 1960s)

The late Captain Soaidy Ali was my uncle. I addressed him as 'Obek' (which means older uncle in Baweanese language) since he was my mother's oldest brother. Obek Sairi (the name I used to call him) was good at handling rifles and had won several prizes in air-rifles competitions.

(Some of my uncle's winning plaques during the period of his Army Career - 2001)

After his retirement from the army, my uncle became an Imam in one of the Masjid nearby his home. Like Uncle Bohari, Uncle Soaidy was able to recite the Holy Qur'aan beautifully. In fact all of his siblings are good at Qur'aan recitation. This was because, like any other typical Baweanese in those days, my grandfather was very strict and particular in educating his children with the Qur'aanic knowledge.

(My mum on the right most in the front row. She won a prize for reading Qur'aan correctly and beautifully - 1950s)

Unlike any other ordinary Baweanese, my grandfather was a very far-sighted person who believes in the importance of education. He sent all his children to school and all of them completed their studies. Some of my aunties and uncles made it to the tertiary level.

(Uncle Soaidy at the right most with his maternal uncle standing in the middle, and friends - Photo taken in the early 1950s at Johor Baru)

Uncle Soaidy was born in Ipoh, Perak and received his early education in Johor Baru at the English College. He married a Baweanese descent lady, living nearby Pondok Kelompang Gubuk. I address his wife as Obek Hatma. They were blessed with five children.

(My Uncle's wedding photograph - late 1950s)

(Uncle Soaidy with his wife, sister-in-law -Cikgu Mon from Tun Seri Lanang Secondary School, and my mother -sitting beside him. Photo taken in the 1960s during a wedding held at Pondok Kelompang Gubuk. The front most room at the second floor was converted to a wedding hall. During such occasion, all the beds were dismantled and the wardrobes were shifted to the side of the room)

(At another wedding occasion. I was the little girl sitting beside my younger sister at the front. Behind were my two aunties and relatives. Standing at the rear was Aunt Suhaidah and sitting in the middle was Aunt Dalila. Notice the wardrobes being shifted to the side of the room. Photo taken in late 1960s)

(Obek Sairi and Obek Hatma as I always remember them in my memory - Photo taken in early 1960s)

My Uncle passed away in August 2000 due to old age. He was then 65 years old.

My Uncle, Ahmad Bohari

(Ahmad Bohari Bin Ali with his two sons and a niece - Eid 2000)

My other uncle who played football during his teenage life is Ahmad Bohari. He played football for a very brief period. Unlike Ahmad Sayuti, he was not selected to play for the youth national team.

Ahmad Bohari is my mother's second youngest brother. He is the one who very much resemble my late maternal grandfather, both in terms of appearance and obedience towards his religion. Like my mother, he has a remarkable voice and able to read the Qur'aan with a rhythmic-like recitation that is very soothing to hear. He teaches children to recite the Qur'aan during his spare time. Generally, the Baweanese are good at reciting the Holy Qur'aan.

As his niece, I address my uncle as 'Mamang' because he is the younger brother of my mother. Mamang Bohari is married with four children, three boys and a girl. The oldest child, Yan, will be completing National Service (NS) very soon and is looking forward to continue his studies at the University. Yan, is one of my favorite cousins whom I am always proud of. He has good manners and very polite to his elder. He brought lots of pride and joy to the family with his successful academic achievements. According to me he is the perfect son that every mother wishes to have.